Home to Coco Chanel, F Scott Fitzgerald and Henri Matisse, the Cote d’Azur has always had a glitzy and glamorous reputation. But while film buffs converge on Cannes and celebrities gravitate towards Monaco, Nice, nestling between mountains and the Mediterranean sea, is often overlooked as a stylish destination in its own right. Top museums, Michelin-starred restaurants and swish boutiques jostle for attention in France’s fifth largest city. Best of all Nice is authentic, its urban centre humming with life.
Karen Millen
The Karen Millen store is at 6 Avenue Jean Medecin.
Old Town
The Old Town boasts more than its fair share of markets. Even frequent visitors to the city adore the Flower Market on Cours Saleya (open daily except Sunday afternoon and all day Monday) – the star of the city - or the tiny but teeming Fish Market in Place St François (Tues-Sun 8am-1pm). Check out the crunchy apples, robust pumpkins and fresh mushrooms at the Produce Market (Cours Saleya, Tues-Sun 8am-1pm), being sure to pay special attention to the often-missed producers’ hub in Place Gautier.
City centre
The city centre is a shopper’s paradise, with boutiques lining Avenue Jean-Medecin and the Zone Pietonne. If you’re more in the mood for a little bargain hunting, Troc’Riviera (11 Rue Hancy) is a cross between a car boot sale and an antiques bazaar, selling everything from Roche Bobois armchairs to silver cutlery sets.
La Bulle d’isis
37 Rue Massena
Tel: +33493871713 (closed Thursday and Sunday)
This beauty institute and spa in the city centre is just the ticket for a hot stone massage or a chocolate body wrap.
Hi Hotel
3 Avenue des Fleurs
Tel: +33 4 97 07 26 26
This ‘urban hotel for a contemporary experience’ is pretty impressive, exuding new-school Riviera glamour with its roof-top pool, hip music sessions on Friday and Saturday, as well as conceptual bedrooms, relaxation areas and an organic restaurant. You can also rent bicycles – a great way to explore the city. Hi Beach opened this summer.
Negresco
37 Promenade des Anglais
Tel: +33 4 93 16 64 00
This fabled luxury hotel, where Alfred Hitchcock shot To Catch a Thief, is a celebrity haunt with its own private beach. Take a seat at the Bar le Relais and order yourself the only appropriate drink in this temple to high living: a kir royale.
Le Grimaldi
15 Rue Grimaldi
Tel: +33 4 9316 0024
A good value option offering stylish accommodation in a Belle Epoque-style building on a quiet street a minute's walk from the Promenade des Anglais. Each room is decorated in a warm and different way. Adorable.
La Petit Maison
11 Rue Saint-Franscois-de-Paul
Tel: +33 4 93 92 59 59
Nice’s smart set continue to flock to this fashionable restaurant which majors in fresh, flavourful dishes. The London branch that opened last summer was a roaring success too. A place to see and be seen, so book ahead!
Cote Marais
4 Rue de Pontin
Tel: +33 4 93 80 95 39
The perfect ‘vieux ville’ (old town) experience, Cote is tucked away in a tiny side street, and awash with Nicoise couplings canoodling over their rosé. Chef-patron Mario serves up Provencale food to die for: fish soup, fillet du boeuf, and seabass, all awash with flavours like thyme, basil and garlic. Great value set menu too.
Chez Pipo
13 Rue Bavastro
Tel: +33 4 93 55 88 82
For a jug of chilled wine and the best of Nice’s street-foods, like pissaladière (caramelised onions, anchovies and olives atop a pizza base) and socca (an oven-baked chickpea pancake), hit this locals-only joint.
Before
18 Rue de Congres
Tel: +33 4 93 87 85 59
Come to this hip bar for an aperitif at happy hour and grab a spot on the terrace overlooking the garden.
Boscolo Hôtel Plaza
12 Avenue de Verdun
Tel: +33 4 93 16 75 75
Wind down your day with an aperitif and 360° views at the Plaz’Art Kafé, located on the rooftop terrace.
La Suite
2 Rue Bréa
Tel: +33 4 9392 9291
This sea-front club-bar is dominated by a late-twenties crowd who can be a bit snooty, but this is the south of France so attitude is built in. Book a table first.
MAMAC
Promenade des Arts
Visit the superb collection of post-1960s art which includes works by Keith Hareing and local icons Cesar and Yves Klein.
St Paul de Vence
Promenade des Arts
Make sure you jump in a cab or drive 30 minutes up into the hills to get a real taste of old school bohemia and dine at the world famous restaurant La Colombe d’Or (www.la-colombe-dor.com) in the walled village of St Paul de Vence. The restaurant is hung with paintings by Picasso, Klee and Miró (who paid for their food with their art) and the traditional Provençal menu is also available on the creeper-clad garden terrace. If you get a little carried away on the wine, there are 26 simply furnished rooms and suites, some with frescoed walls.
Back to nature
Nice claims 300 hectares of parks and gardens, and 150 fountains and ponds, so there’s always somewhere to relax and forget the crowds. Favourites include the forested trails on Mont Boron, the Hanging Gardens on the Paillon River and the adjoining parks (free concerts in the bandstand in summer).
Beach
The French Riviera is all about the beach and although Nice may not be home to one of the most dazzling examples, it would be a shame not to work on your tan for a few hours. There are public and private beaches and one of the ritziest of the latter variety is the Castel Plage (25) at quai Rauba-Capeu (00 33 493 852 266; www.castelplage.com), where you can lie next to the young and beautiful on a sun lounger. Or, if you'd rather slum it with the hoi polloi, the Beau Rivage (26) is a good public option.
